Bond Wardrobe Review 21: Casino Royale 2006

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It also shows that he no longer wears suits ‘with such disdain’, as Vesper tells him earlier in the film.
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The shawl-collar cardigan and the checked trousers are worn together as well as with other items. The light blue linen shirt has a strong two-button collar that looks good on Craig unbuttoned, but it is let down with short sleeves. A linen shirt with long sleeves would not wear much differently in hot weather, yet it would look much better under a suit jacket.

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When Bond returns to the Bahamas he’s wearing a navy polo from Sunspel in their ‘Riviera’ mesh. This is one of the best looks of the film, especially due to how it revived the polo from the Connery era and defined it as a staple of Craig’s Bond wardrobe. The updated trim fit turned the polo into a fresh look, while the unique mesh knit with a self collar instead of a ribbed collar also removed many of the garment’s stodgy connotations. The trousers’ cut represents a short-lived trend for men that doesn’t hold up well now, but it doesn’t detract from the polo’s brilliance. Light blue swim trunks are a Connery Bond classic that return to the series in a fresh way.

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He wears a blue Brioni shirt with grey chalk stripes, another unusual shirt for Bond. The navy-and-white checkerboard tie, however, is a beautiful choice that has an appropriate look for Bond. It’s a brilliant choice to complement the ribbed silk jacket facings with a different kind of textured silk. The shape is narrower than Brosnan’s bow ties, and it looks classic and flattering on Craig. Albert Thurston white moire braces complete the look, and they are appropriately on display when Bond undresses in his hotel room but not at the poker table. Despite all the changes in Casino Royale, the dinner jacket is still the look that defines James Bond.

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Before Casino Royale, baggy board shorts had been the popular style of men’s swimwear. Lindy Hemming wanted to show off Craig’s physique, so she put him in trim swim trunks with little coverage and turned him into a sex symbol in a way James Bond never was before. They are the most effective outfit for showing off Craig’s physique, though his polos and t-shirts also excel at this. These trunks changed men’s swim fashions for the better, if only for practical reasons. The outfit is difficult to see because of the dim lighting, dramatic camera angles and black-and-white colouring, but it’s a wonderful choice for a rookie James Bond who isn’t yet a Double-O. In the navy, the pea coat is worn by younger sailors as opposed to officers, so it’s perfect for portraying a less mature version of Bond.

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It’s an odd choice to use single vents on the smarter suits, since double-vents are slightly smarter than single vents.
The sloppiness also comes from an excessive fullness in many of the trousers, from suit trousers to casual trousers.
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The raincoat is an unusual item for Bond, but this is a perfect coat for Bond.
The dinner jacket is black wool, breaking away from Brosnan’s usual midnight blue.
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It has an appropriately modern look for Bond compared to the traditional tan raincoat. Craig’s muscular body in Casino Royale—the most extreme body of the Bond series—is difficult to tailor, both in getting the shape of the clothes to follow the body and in making it look elegant. I think that Hemming and Brioni did a good job at achieving a balance, though I think the shoulders and width of the trouser legs could have been attenuated.

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The three smarter suits are worn with Brioni shirts that have a semi-spread collar and double cuffs.
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The jackets have the same cut as a the dinner jacket, but with three buttons on the front in a medium stance.
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The excess is emphasising Craig’s muscular build as much as the opposite kind of shoulder would, but this way is more traditional.
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The shape is narrower than Brosnan’s bow ties, and it looks classic and flattering on Craig.
The suit is difficult to judge on Craig because he’s always moving and wears the jacket unbuttoned.
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Craig’s muscular body in Casino Royale—the most extreme body of the Bond series—is difficult to tailor, both in getting the shape of the clothes to follow the body and in making it look elegant.
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Short-sleeve shirts again are a poor style choice, but it’s a Fleming Bond detail so in that manner it can be excused.
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When Bond arrives in Montenegro, he wears a similar suit in a muted navy glen check, this time with a belt instead of braces.

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Other than the first suit, the rest of the suits are made by Brioni, all in the same cut. The jackets have the same cut as a the dinner jacket, but with three buttons on the front in a medium stance. Medium-width high-gorge lapels roll just through the top button, showing the button but opening the jacket down to the middle button.

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Though most of the t-shirts are luxurious t-shirts from Sunspel, that luxury doesn’t translate to an appropriate look for Bond. In the t-shirts he doesn’t look like he’s just getting started, he looks like he has given up. The dinner jacket and its corresponding dress shirt are some of the best in the series. The film stresses the importance of this outfit, and Lindy Hemming came up with a truly exceptional look. With the last two suits, Craig wears the John Lobb ‘Romsey’ plain-toe two-eyelet chukka boots in black calf. This is a beautiful boot that has more than enough grace to pair with a smart suit.

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The loud Liberty-print shirt is uncharacteristic for Bond and makes him stand out too much in the crowd for it to be a practical choice.
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His final casual look of the film revives the black shawl-collar cardigan, this time pairing it with a white V-neck t-shirt and khaki chinos. He needs a better shirt, especially to lead us into the final suit of the film. For the film’s climax, Bond wears a mid-blue rugby shirt from Massimo Dutti over a grey t-shirt and navy chinos. The rugby shirt is a superb choice, but the t-shirt is superfluous and detracts from the look tremendously. He’s not on a mission, so he should be wearing more stylish shoes like the suede chukka boots he previously wore in the film. There were much nicer suede trainers available if this was the look he was going to have.

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The first two suit jackets have double vents, while the last three suits have single vents.
The film stresses the importance of this outfit, and Lindy Hemming came up with a truly exceptional look.
The body has a close fit to make the most of Craig’s physique, but it’s not so tight that it would sacrifice elegance.
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The first is a navy dressing gown with a white grid check, worn over a light grey V-neck jumper and black t-shirt.
I think this is a much stronger suit because the subtle check is more Bondian and more timeless than a multi-coloured stripe.
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Bond Wardrobe Review 21: Casino Royale 2006